Start here when you want a hotpot everyone can keep reaching into, even the people who dodge big heat. The broth turns rich and deeply mushroomy, with a mild savory finish that holds up beautifully under tofu, greens, noodles, and whatever else is crowding the table. Keep it simple or pile it high. Mild does not mean boring.

Perfect pairings

• Cremini, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms
• Shrimp, scallops, and white fish
• Baby bok choy, spinach, and napa cabbage
• Glass noodles or udon, soft tofu, and a poached egg