The weeknight one for when dinner needs to happen before you start bargaining with yourself. Roasted chili oil gives the noodles a smoky red sheen and a medium-spicy finish that stays steady instead of showing off. Boil, toss, and move on with your evening. Straightforward food is still good food.

Perfect pairings

• Shredded rotisserie chicken or leftover steak
• A fried egg with a runny yolk
• Sliced cucumber, scallions, and cilantro
• Quick-pickled radish or carrot